Albania
We crossed into Albania from Montenegro through the first border crossing showing signs of the disorganised chaos that we're expecting for the majority of the remaining trip. As soon as we rolled onto Albanian soil we experienced our first bout of culture shock. There were many extremely poor people begging the entering traffic for money and food. As we made our way towards Shkodër, our base for the first night, we rode through many small villages, and soon learned that the roads we have known so far could no longer be expected. Blind corners were often mixed with off cambered gravel or a sharp transition from paved surface to dirt, the odd cow, or sometimes half of the road had completely slipped down the mountainside. Needless to say, the pace slowed a little, which gave us more time to take in the unbelievable scenery.
Albania is a crazy place considering its location. Being so close to so many developed European nations, we thought the standard of living and infrastructure would be somewhat similar, but much of the country seems to be struggling. Everyone we spoke to still spoke rawly of the transition out of communism, which only happened in 1991.
On arriving at our apartment in Shkodër, we were a little taken aback by the happenings on the street. It was like a South East Asian mish-mash of traffic, street vendors and people. Agim, the owner of the apartment did his best to settle us in and gave us a tour of the city from the balcony. After exploring the town a little and going to a recommended restaurant for dinner, our impressions changed instantly. The main square of town was alive with music and people were out and about. After having a couple of drinks on a rooftop bar, we took Agim up on his offer to join him and his wife at their apartment for some 'raki' - the local spirit that tastes like 98 octane. They were amazing hosts and it was a shame to only spend one night there.
Albania is a crazy place considering its location. Being so close to so many developed European nations, we thought the standard of living and infrastructure would be somewhat similar, but much of the country seems to be struggling. Everyone we spoke to still spoke rawly of the transition out of communism, which only happened in 1991.
On arriving at our apartment in Shkodër, we were a little taken aback by the happenings on the street. It was like a South East Asian mish-mash of traffic, street vendors and people. Agim, the owner of the apartment did his best to settle us in and gave us a tour of the city from the balcony. After exploring the town a little and going to a recommended restaurant for dinner, our impressions changed instantly. The main square of town was alive with music and people were out and about. After having a couple of drinks on a rooftop bar, we took Agim up on his offer to join him and his wife at their apartment for some 'raki' - the local spirit that tastes like 98 octane. They were amazing hosts and it was a shame to only spend one night there.
Amazing hosts - Thank you!!
View of Shkodër from the castle
Navigating the streets of Shkodër...
Our next stop was Kukës, in the east of Albania. The road from Shkodër to Kukës was unbelievable. We only covered 120 k's over 4 hours as we spent the whole day in the Albanian mountains, navigating switchbacks, mountain passes, livestock, craters in the road and kids playing. We barely saw another vehicle the whole day.
Part of the road from Shkodër to Kukës
Water break!
Kids and cows!
Kukës
The road to Peshkopi, where we spent the third Albanian night, was more of the same as we snaked our way south over two hours to cover a meagre 70 clicks. We stayed there in another 100+ room hotel, of where we seemed to be the only guests in what is apparently peak season.
Albania has so much potential to be an outdoor playground and very few people seem to be taking advantage of it. It has so many mountains, rivers and lakes, but none of the locals utilise them for leisure. We came across the owner of the first and only hostel in Peshkopi, who is making an effort to promote hiking, rafting and other activities in the area. The place is perfect for it so hopefully he gets it off the ground. He was nice enough to take us out to some hot springs for a midnight dip. We had the hot pool to ourselves, apart from the odd rogue plastic bag and the stench of sulphur.
It is sad to see the problems that Albania is having with garbage. It seems that through a combination of lack of education and infrastructure, most of the garbage ends up on the streets and in the creeks. Apparently most of the garbage that makes it as far as collection is burned.
Albania was a real surprise packet of amazing people and amazing landscape - we wish we could've spent a few more days there. Anyway, next stop..... Macedonia.
Peshkopi Hostel
